Carnival of Ivrea
The Carnival
A festival two centuries old and Italy’s largest bare-handed battle: the Battle of the Oranges. This is our ground.
The longest festival of the year
The Carnival of Ivrea runs for over a month, from Epiphany to Ash Wednesday. During its days the people of Ivrea become masters of the city, gathering around the festival’s leads — theMugnaia and the General — up to its most spectacular moment: the Battle of the Oranges.
Violetta and the revolt
Ivrea’s spirit of freedom dates back to 1194. The story goes that the tyrant, Count Ranieri di Biandrate, claimed the ius primae noctis over the brides of the town. It fell toVioletta, a miller’s daughter: but she rebelled, beheaded the tyrant with a dagger hidden under her wedding gown and showed his head to the people below the Castellazzo. The Mugnaia thus sparked the uprising that razed the castle.
The festival as we know it took shape in the early 1800s, under Napoleonic rule, which unified the separate district carnivals: one citizen was allowed to play the General, and everyone had to wear the Phrygian cap — symbol of the French Revolution and of those who, in the square, must not be hit.
From beans to oranges
The throwing of oranges goes back to the mid-1800s. Earlier still, in the Middle Ages, the weapons were beans: twice a year the feudal lord gave a pot of them to poor families, who threw them into the streets in scorn. Turned into playful missiles at Carnival time, they later gave way to oranges.
Since the post-war years the battle has taken on today’s meaning: in the old-town squares thecart crews — the tyrant’s guards — face the on-foot squads, the rebel townsfolk, hundreds of throwers on each side. It is the high point of that fight for freedom the Carnival stages.
The nine on-foot squads
In the squares, the cart crews face nine squads of on-foot throwers. We are the Scacchi.
- Picche
- Tuchini
- Scacchi
- Morte
- Arduini
- Pantera Nera
- Diavoli
- Mercenari
- Credendari
The Carnival calendar
- Epiphany
- Fifes and drums announce the start of the Carnival and present the new General.
- Fat Thursday
- The Mayor hands the tricolour sash to the General, who takes full powers. It is the finish line of our countdown.
- Fat Saturday
- The Mugnaia appears on the Town Hall balcony: amid fireworks and torches, the festival begins in earnest.
- Sunday
- The Castellazzo bean feast, the “Preda in Dora”, and in the afternoon the Battle of the Oranges begins.
- Monday
- The “scarlo” is raised in the squares; the battle resumes and the Mugnaia greets the throwers.
- Tuesday
- The last battle and the throwers’ awards. At night, the burning of the Scarli and the Carnival’s funeral march.
- Ash Wednesday
- Polenta and cod in Borghetto close the celebrations.
“Arvédze a giòbia a ’n bòt” — see you Thursday at one. That is how the Carnival ends, every year.